Visit Cincinnati
Chuck Darrow
Hey Cincinnati! If you’re looking for a new nickname, how about “The Who Knew City?”
As in, who knew it was such a bustling, dynamic and hip place, filled with fun, funky neighborhoods a multitude of cultural offerings and interesting, centuries-spanning architecture?
As in, who knew it was so topographically diverse, with a downtown ringed by hills?
As in, who knew it was a foodie capital?
As in, who knew this southwestern-Ohio was surprisingly Philly-like?
Indeed, a recent visit to what residents like to call The Queen City (and the rest of us know as “Cincy”) found a most surprising locale.
Below are just some of the reasons why Cincinnati, which is about 11 hours by car and less than two hours by air from this neck of the woods, is a worthwhile, and highly recommended destination:
Seems phamiliar
Delaware Valleyans will no doubt be struck by Cincinnati’s similarities to Philadelphia.
On the “macro” side of things, Cincinnatians, like Philadelphians, like to think of their town as a “city of neighborhoods” (52, to be exact), each with its own identity and culture. And like Philly, Cincy has a major, citywide mural program which is a source of great local pride.
On a “micro” level, four major downtown arteries are named “Market,” “Walnut,” “Race” and “Vine.” And a historic district just north of the city center was originally dubbed “Northern Liberties.” It is the home of a beloved culinary institution at which people from Philadelphia will feel right at home.
Getting high in Cincy
No, the town does not sanction legal marijuana. But it does boast the 49-story Carew Tower, a local landmark that is a gem of Art Deco architecture and which was a model for the Empire State Building.
A trip to the 49th-floor observation deck ($6/$3 for kids 6-11/free under 6; cash only) is a great starting point for visitors as it provides geographic perspective for future sightseeing. And make sure to check out the restored Hilton Cincinnati Netherland Hotel, a National Historic Landmark that is part of the Carew Tower complex. The public spaces provide a fascinating glimpse into the opulence of a long-gone age.
Going ‘Underground’
Cincinnati is the home of the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center, a 14-year-old complex whose name is something of a misnomer. The “Underground Railroad”—the mid-1800s clandestine pipeline via which Southern slaves found their way to freedom in the North—is certainly the foundation upon which the repository was built, but educating the public about it is a relatively small part of the museum’s overall focus.
Instead, the Center deals primarily with exposing, explaining and combatting slavery, historical and current: One large exhibit is dedicated to the sexual bondage in which millions find themselves in as you read this in the U.S. and around the world.
In all, an important and thought-provoking destination.
Fun in the ‘hoods
As noted above, Cincinnati is a lot more than just its energetic and cosmopolitan downtown. Throughout the city, once-distressed residential-and-commercial districts are at varying stages of revitalization.
Perhaps the most intriguing is the oddly named Over-the-Rhine, located north of downtown. The moniker refers to the area being the original settlement of what ultimately grew to be the city’s most influential ethnic group: Germans whose arrival began in the early 19th century.
Once home to dozens of the town’s signature breweries, the neighborhood is undergoing a transformation after years of neglect and blight. Empty store fronts are being replaced by bars, restaurants and specialty shops on a regular basis.
One fun way to see and learn about OTR is by taking the Queen City Underground tour conducted by American Legacy Tours (www.americanlegacytours.com).
The roughly 75-minute stroll through the area is highlighted by visits to a subterranean church crypt and to tunnels and spaces located 30 feet below a former brewery. Above ground, the sites include the building (once a theater, now an Italian restaurant) where Annie Oakley made her show business debut.
If you can, try to get on a tour led by Dean Morgan. He is extremely knowledgeable and presents his lessons in an entertaining way (with plenty of groaningly bad—but hilarious—jokes).
Over-the-Rhine is also home to Findlay Market (www.findlaymarket.org), the above-mention beloved institution. The 166-year-old food hall reminiscent of Reading Terminal Market (though not as big) houses stands offering both prepared foods to eat on-the-spot and raw to take home and cook.
A more fully-realized center of fun is the Walnut Hills neighborhood. Among the gotta-see-it haunts there is Video Archive, which pretty much defines the word “cool.”
Established as a tribute to filmmaker Quentin Tarantino (who has no official connection to it), one enters from outside into what appears to be a small, circa-1985 video store. Patrons approach the person at the counter, who provides a hint as to what VHS box they should seek out; when it is picked up, the wall opens to reveal a bar where the waitresses wear wigs inspired by Uma Thurman’s ’do in “Pulp Fiction” and Tarantino-related artwork adorns the walls.
Other drinking options are available, as are a variety of restaurants and shops.
Cincinnati’s leisure-time endeavors don’t stop at the edge of the Ohio River, which separates the city from Northern Kentucky. Just over the bridge (think Philly/Camden, but without the tolls) sit the adjoining towns of Newport and Covington, Ky.
The former prides itself on being a mid-20th-century Sin City, where gambling casinos and other wild-side establishments operated with the eager cooperation of local law enforcement. American Legacy Tours conducts the “Gangster Tour,” which celebrates Newport’s wild-and-woooly past and its contributions to the rise of the modern-day gambling industry.
The latter is home to multiple dining and drinking establishments. For dinner, you can’t go wrong at Bouquet (www.boquetrestaurant.com), located in the heart of the MainStrasse historic district, a restored 18th century German Village. It has earned an Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator Magazine and named Best Restaurant in Kentucky by Business Insider.
For the more “spiritual” among us, Covington boasts the Old Kentucky Bourbon Bar, which offers some 600 different brands of bourbon and American whiskey (www.facebook.com/Oldkybourbonbar).
Let’s eat
The spots listed above are but the tip of Cincy’s culinary iceberg. For an exceptional fine-dining experience, there’s Mita’s Restaurant and Bar. Located in the heart of downtown on Race Street opposite the Hyatt Regency Cincinnati hotel, this James Beard Foundation Award-nominated eatery specializes in small-plate cuisine of Spain and Latin America. It’s pricey, but worth the visit.
However, if you want to eat like a local, then chili is the way to go. The Cincy equivalent of Philly cheesesteaks, some 250 chili outlets dot the region. One, Camp Washington Chili (www.campwashingtonchilli.com) is the city’s only Beard Foundation winner. Also popular are the Gold Star and Skyline chains. All serve the dish according to the “way” system (“two-way,” “three-way” etc.) which dictates the ingredients (spaghetti is required on all).
Let’s sleep
Cincinnati is served by most major chains. But if downtown is home base for your trip, you can’t go wrong with the Netherland or the Hyatt. Our room at the latter was modern, stylish, comfortable and, most of all, perfectly located.
Getting around
A car is the best way to hit the outlying areas. But a great way to traverse the downtown area is the Cincinnati Bell Connector, a 3.6-mile streetcar loop with 18 stations (cincinnatibellconnector.com).
There is far more to see and do in Cincinnati than what space allows here. For more info, go to www.cincyusa.com.
