Portland
Thanks, in no small part, to the cult hit “Portlandia” on the IFC cable outlet, Portland, Ore. has earned a reputation as an alternative universe where nose-pierced and tattooed, flannel-shirt-clad, aioli-guzzling denizens spend their lives in skate parks and alt-lifestyle book stores. And while there is certainly more than a kernel of truth in the stereotype of the place “where young people go to retire” (per a song from the premiere episode of “Portlandia”), visitors will find a vibrant, and yes, quirky, destination that offers a wide palette of attractions and activities that can fill multiple days.
Getting to Portland from Philadelphia will be especially easy this summer, as Alaska Air recently initiated the first non-stop service, which will be in effect through Aug. 26 (for more information, go to www.alaskaair.com or talk to a AAA Travel Consultant).
Below is a surface-scratching look at some of the many things to see and do in “PDX” (the city’s ubiquitous nickname derived from the designation of Portland International Airport):
History on Display
Unlike Philadelphia, Boston or New York City, Oregon, which became a state in 1859, didn’t play a crucial role in the nation’s founding, but it nonetheless has an interesting and often-colorful past. The Oregon Historical Society documents the state’s story with an emphasis on the indigenous people and immigrants who helped build Portland and Oregon, and the natural resources (timber, fish, nickel) that sustained it. Through Nov. 12, the repository is hosting “High Hopes: The Journey of John F. Kennedy.” It’s a tribute to the 35th president with an emphasis on his relation to the state. While some artifacts are reproductions, there are dozens of authentic items including letters sent by and to JFK and such humanizing details as the late president’s portable typewriter and a handwritten, itemized list of her wardrobe written by Jackie Kennedy as she prepared to exit the White House.
1200 SW Park Ave; www.ohs.org.
Gardens of Earthly Delights
Portland is universally ranked among the most scenic of American cities for its tree-lined streetscapes and numerous public green spaces. Two horticultural attractions are particularly noteworthy.
The 40-year-old, landmark Japanese Garden recently underwent a $33.5 million renovation/expansion project that added some 33 percent more land to the existing 9.1 acres. Its hilly trails (shuttle buses are available for those to whom the climb could be challenging) take visitors through a gorgeous landscape of exotic trees, bushes, flowers and shrubbery, waterfalls and stocked ponds and buildings including a tea café and a venue for Kabuki theater performances and art exhibits. One can easily spend the better part of a day here.
611 SW Kingston Ave.; japanesegarden.org.
If the sprawling Japanese Garden can be considered a mega-mall, then the Lan Su Chinese Garden is a boutique. Situated in a bustling downtown neighborhood, this botanical gem occupies less than an acre, but it’s that intimacy that may be its greatest selling point. While the Japanese Garden almost dares you to explore it, the Lan Su Garden is a wonderfully peaceful place to just sit and contemplate life among a variety of Chinese flora, waterfalls and structures -- or to simply appreciate an oasis of serenity that exists surrounded by the hubbub of a major metropolis.
Beyond the hundreds of native Chinese flowers, trees and plants, highlights include many works of Chinese art scattered about the park and an authentic tea house.
239 NW Everett St; www.lansugarden.org.
Mansion on a Hill
A visit to Portland must include a stop at the 103-year-old Pittock Mansion. Built by publishing tycoon Henry Pittock on a 1,000-foot-high hill that affords stunning views of the skyline and Willamette River and its bridges, the estate sits on 46 acres of park land and boasts 46 rooms. The house tour gives visitors an idea of what fabulous wealth bought a century ago: The then-high-tech amenities included an internal telephone system and a mechanical (as opposed to hand-powered) dumbwaiter. Because the 16,000-square-foor manse fell into horrible disrepair and remained that way for decades, most of the furnishings are not original, but are authentic to the era. While there is an admission fee to enter the house, there is no charge to walk the surrounding property.
3229 NW Pittock Dr.; www.pittockmansion.org
Food, Glorious Food
One of the most important developments of the recent past is Portland’s emergence as a dining mecca: In 2015, Washington Post restaurant critic Tom Sietsema ranked it first among a dozen American cities; it’s no coincidence Guy Fieri’s “Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives” regularly films episodes there.
Both the offerings and price points are diverse; space limitations prohibit an exhaustive look at dining in “Stumptown” (so named for Portland’s booming 19th century timber industry), but during a recent visit, we sampled several superb restaurants:
RingSide Steakhouse (2165 W Burnside St; www.ringsidesteakhouse.com) is a 73-year-old eatery that screams “old school.” It’s among the city’s priciest eateries, and, although Portland foodies worship the new and different, it has thrived as a purveyor of classic fare (steaks, chops, seafood, etc.). A real experience for lovers of the “Rat Pack” vibe of bygone days.
Pok Pok (1639 NW Marshall St.; www.pokpoknw.com) is an outlet of the small, Thai-centric chain that has become a Portland sensation. And it’s no wonder: This isn’t typical strip-mall fare, but far more exotic (dishes include an unbelievably delicious -- and fiery -- boar collar) with flavors that simply must be sampled to be fully appreciated. And if there are better chicken wings to be found in the Lower 48, we are not aware of where they may be!
Swiss Hibiscus (4950 NE 14th Ave.; www.swisshibiscus.com) is a postage stamp of a room featuring authentic Swiss cuisine, with an emphasis on variations of Weiner schnitzel (the paprika schnitzel -- pork medallions in a glorious mushroom cream sauce is alone worth the trip to PDX).
Portland is also celebrated for its “pods,” neighborhood lots where food trucks offering everything from grilled cheese sandwiches to tacos set up shop. A newer trend is embodied by the Pine Street Market (126 SW 2nd Ave; www.pinestreetpdx), a smaller, hipper version of Philly’s famed Reading Terminal Market. And mid-September will see the annual Feast Portland, which, in less than a decade, has become the West Coast’s most prestigious food-and-wine festival (www.feastportland.com).
For more on Portland, go to www.travelportland.com.
