Three of a Kind
Our seaplane found the water so gently I didn’t know we’d landed until spray sprung past my window, and we were coasting in the shadows of cruise ships anchored in the bay before Charlotte Amalie. Before long, my wife and I were strolling crowded downtown sidewalks.
Barkers beckoned us into jewelry shops and other mercantile outlets that cater to cruise passengers as we hunted for souvenirs. For sure, the bustle of Charlotte Amalie is a primer for much of St. Thomas, one of the three main gems composing the Caribbean escape that is the United States Virgin Islands, each with its own vibe.
Apart From the In Crowd
Despite its popularity -- Charlotte Amalie can have four or five cruise ships in port on the same day -- finding space to play on St. Thomas without banging elbows with fellow tranquility seekers can be achieved. We rented a car and headed east, away from the city center, until reaching Coral World, an aquarium-beach complex that trades on a carefree Caribbean vibe and unique ways to see the underwater world surrounding the island.
We descended below the waterline to see denizens of the shallows while more intrepid visitors donned special gear and walked on the seafloor. Other marine life, such as rescued sea turtles, made us linger before we sought less-crowded sand down the coast. Lindquist Beach accommodated us with a rock to perch on and waves to watch roll ashore.
An early-morning visit the next day to the number-one beach on St. Thomas -- Magens Bay -- treated us to warm water and a mile-long beach to stroll. Its beauty was equally stunning from above, when we reached Drake’s Seat. The site supposedly was picked by Sir Francis Drake to daily survey his fleet. Veracity of the claim aside, the lookout is magnificent.
The same was true from the zip lines of Tree Limin’ Extreme, where a little adrenaline was a nice complement to relaxing on the beach.
Let’s Park It
We found it even easier to escape into the USVI’s beauty on St. John, the nearby neighbor of St. Thomas. Our resort ferry ride was a leisurely 45-minute jaunt across the sea, leaving us at the foot of Lind Point Trail.
In no time, we were passing delighted squeals coming from revelers on Honeymoon Beach and those gathered around the attendant concession stand. We were tempted to divert from our hike, but we left the fun to the beachgoers. Meanwhile, the trail climbs away from the shore and drives deeper into the forest of Virgin Islands National Park, which occupies about 60 percent of St. John.
Soon, we were alone and remained happily isolated until we reached the national park’s visitor center in Cruz Bay, the island’s largest community. We learned the lay of the land and the history of the park before venturing across the street to browse several attractive shops. Then we wandered the back streets, where we happily discovered Dog House Pub, a casual, funky hangout. The food was delicious, and the clientele was a mesmerizing mix of tarted-up tourist chic and fall-out-of-bed island casual.
When we hiked the mile-long trail back, we took a spur path to the actual Lind Point, where we gawked at a superb view of Cruz Bay’s harbor full of pleasure craft. We dreamed of winning the lottery and dropping anchor. We revisited the same fantasy later after spotting sailboats resting on the placid blue waters of Maho Bay during an open-air taxi tour of the national park.
The tour also took us to Annaberg Sugar Mill Ruins, giving us insight into the plantation, slavery and Danish heritage of the Virgin Islands. (The U.S. acquired the islands in 1917.)
Island Time
We found more details about Denmark in the Caribbean at Christiansted National Historic Site, on St. Croix, the third Virgin Island. The city was the Danish colony’s seat of power, and the national historic site is highlighted by a strikingly yellow fort and stately government house.
We wandered the grounds, strolled the waterfront and stopped at one of the many eateries facing the harbor. The town’s come-as-you-are Margaritaville pulse was accented by locals’ greetings, which were as warm as the pleasant breeze.
We relaxed, watching people ogle the tarpon loitering next to the pier. We also reminisced about our morning sojourn to not-too-distant Point Udall, the U.S.’ easternmost spot. Scenic and interesting, yes, but the real draw for us were Jack’s Bay and Isaac’s Bay -- two gorgeous beaches reachable only by a hike.
We were alone there as we left our footprints in the sand next to those of hatching sea turtles that had made their way to the ocean. The wind jostled my wife’s hair, the sun framed her face and I marveled at our ability to find such solitude on a public beach in the middle of paradise.
Planning Your Trip
For more information about the U.S. Virgin Islands, call (800) 372-8784 or log on to visitusvi.com. For trip-planning assistance, contact your local AAA office or visit AAA.com/travel.
